The Lewes Oyster House has served Arrowhead Points, Sewansecotts and Pink Moons, all from nearby waters and shown off in tanks displayed in the windows. Photo by Pam George.
After months of construction delays, the downtown Lewes restaurant at 108 Second St. opened to the public this week.
Last week, however, the Second Street eatery gave the staff a trial run with friends and family, and one reporter talked her way into a seat at the oyster bar for a sneak peek.
The visit proved that the team had used their time wisely.
While working for La Vida, Little met Sean Corea, a Culinary Institute of America graduate. Corea helped Nage transition to Fork & Flask and also worked at Nalu, another casual concept.
Lewes Oyster House sports a comfortable vibe like those establishments, but the owners hardly sleep on the job.
From the logo to the menu, it is clear that they considered their concept.
The Lewes Oyster House’s NOLA Style Buffalo Soldiers uses oysters fried to a golden brown and then topped with with gorgonzola, micro celery and Crystal Louisiana’s Pure Hot Sauce. Photo by Pam George.
The Lewes Oyster House’s Crab Stuffed Oysters puts crab Imperial into Kennett Square cremini mushrooms, served in an escargot plate. Photo by Pam George.
Shuckers at the Lewes Oyster House kept busy during friend and family nights last week. Photo by Pam George.
Creating a seaside tavern
The space, formerly Jerry’s Seafood, is in the Walsh Building, which was built in the 1930s.
It’s been a community center and fire hall, but most people remember the site as the original Rose & Crown, and remnants of that location remain — namely 10 taps and a handsome bar.
The partners wanted the restaurant to feel like a public house, a gathering place for the town.
And, in the old days, an East Coast tavern would have oysters, which explains why the beach’s favorite bivalves are the star.
Indeed, the stage is set from the start.
The oyster bar is on the lower level next to the expansive windows facing the street. Aquarium-like tanks that hold the oysters are nestled next to the glass.
Selections thus far have included sweet Arrowhead Point from Rehoboth Bay, Chincoteague; Sewansecott from Virginia; and Pink Moon, delicate oysters from Prince Edward Island.
One might question putting the shuckers’ backs to the sidewalk, but it works.
The curious paused to peer into the restaurant, and diners get a double show — they can watch the shuckers and pedestrians.
A plush banquette for a group is on one side of the oyster bar, creating a see-and-be-seen table — everyone who walks into the restaurant must pass by it.
On the other side is a wall of wines.
The bulk of the seating is on the second level, where black banquets with brass railings line an exposed brick wall.
The main bar is also on this level, as is a room that can handle private parties.
Gleaming wood accents, wainscoting, stained glass, octagonal tiles and tin ceilings all contribute to the Old World look.
As for the art, framed photographs salute the nautical theme, and beach real estate maven Lee Ann Wilkinson, who owns the building, contributed a few of her oyster plates, which hang near the oyster bar.
The Lewes Oyster House’s Blue Catfish Sandwich uses buttermilk-cornmeal dredged catfish, Pennsylvania Dutch slaw served with cajun remoulade on a soft roll served with signature boardwalk fries. Photo by Pam George.
The Lewes Oyster House Lobster Roll features Delaware lobster with lemon, celery salt and tarragon served on a toasted top served with one of their four signature boardwalk fries. Photo by Pam George.
The Lewes Oyster House, now open at 108 Second St., features fish tanks filled with oysters visible from the sidewalk. Photo courtesy of Lewes Oyster House.
Lewes Oyster House menu
The menu also pays homage to Lewes. For example, Corea cheekily named the seafood towers ($85, $110) for the fire towers in Cape Henlopen State Park, once a World War II Army base.
Along with the raw oysters, there are cooked preparations, including the New Orleans-style Buffalo Soldier ($12), fried oysters topped with gorgonzola, butter and Louisiana’s Crystal Hot Sauce.
There are plenty of noshes to go with the oysters, craft beer and excellent wine selection.
Take, for example, Memphis-style wings, crab-stuffed Kennett mushrooms ($14) , which arrive in an escargot dish, and a lobster corn dog with fries ($26).
To be sure, many dishes reveal Corea’s fine-dining roots. Appetizers also include beef tartare ($15), whipped ricotta toast ($11) and charred shishito peppers ($11).
Either way, the food is fun. And while the entrees are impressive — butter-poached halibut ($32), lavender honey-glazed duck ($31) — the sandwiches were too tempting for the intrusive reporter to resist.
Let’s talk for a minute about the fried blue catfish sandwich ($13), dredged in buttermilk and cornmeal and serve with remoulade and Pennsylvania Dutch slaw.
Blue catfish, an invasive species in the Chesapeake Bay, is delicious — much meatier and milder than their pedestrian brethren. More restaurants should be serving this sustainable and affordable species.
The lobster roll was a decent version of the Main signature sandwich, complete with the split frankfurter bun.
Both came with deliciously crisp and salty boardwalk fries, served in brown paper-covered containers resembling potato skins.
Clearly, one visit is not enough to experience what Lewes Oyster House has to offer. And that is a good thing.
